In Faroes, KOKS Is a Two-starred Michelin Meal On the Edge of The World
A dream work assignment brought me to The Faroes for stunning landscapes and a visit at two-starred Michelin restaurant Koks—a meal worth taking the trip here on its own.
On a whirlwind trip this summer, I was hired as the photographer on Foods of Copenhagen’s Nordic Gastro Travel taking place in Copenhagen and The Faroe Islands. One thing was exploring both new and familiar places in my home town on day one—a whole other story was experiencing the rugged, green landscapes of The Faroe Islands for the first time. I’d been wanting to go here for ages, so this assignment came greatly appreciated at the end of summer.
We only had one night to spend on The Faroes, which meant that our adventure started as soon as we got off the plane at the airport. We were picked up by our guide Solfinn, who not only has the Faroese history and food culture in his heart, but also runs the infamous Copenhagen-based natural wine bar Rødder. Alas, he knows his way around the food and wine industry, and Solfinn and his brother made sure we got to see some spectacular places and didn’t waste any time on the main island Streymoy (I can imagine visitors getting lost whilst driving around The Faroes is pretty common).
With its remote location in the mountains, the restaurant has no neighbours and unhindered views of the landscape
A a group, we visited both view points on top of green mountains, small villages with local kids dipping their feet in the creeks, and of course, the highlight of the trip: KOKS restaurant. Named the most remote Michelin restaurant in the world, KOKS is impossible to reach on your own—a four-wheel drive will pick up you and your company on a nearby shore from where the journey continues along the lake and up the hills where a simple black wooden cottage awaits. If you’re in luck, local Faroese and head chef Poul Andreas Ziska will be driving the truck himself; if not, one of the beyond talented chefs or kind waiters will be.
Despite their two Michelin stars, a visit to KOKS felt as if being invited for lunch at a local Faroese house. A lavish and quite lengthy lunch consisting of more than twenty courses, but nevertheless down-to-earth and ‘homey’. Guests often come straight from having explored the island, which means that practical clothes are not rare, and as the old house is low-ceilinged, chances are you’ll have to move around with a bowed head just like most of the staff here.
The restaurant first opened up as part of the Hotel Føroyar in Tórshavn, the main town on Streymoy, but relocated to this more remote location in the mountains near Lake Leynar in 2018. The Hotel Føroyar is branded as the most luxurious on the islands, and while our night here was completely fine and without complaints—I wouldn’t necessarily call it luxurious, but rather a place to spend the night, and then head out to explore as soon as you wake up in the morning. Thus, I am glad I got to experience KOKS in this new location in the old farm house from 1740 resting by the lake. It completely blends in with the surrounding landscape, and makes you feel like you step into a world on its own during your visit.
At KOKS, you have to keep an open mind while enjoying dishes made from ingredients such as lamb brain, sea urchins, and weeds—all of which are found on the islands and in the local waters. Still, I found the +20 course menu to be accessible and easy to navigate in. Furthermore, it was extremely tasty with plenty of rich and distinct umami flavours. I had the juice menu accompanying the meal, and this only added to the richness of the experiences without being neither too fruity nor acidic which I sometimes find juice menus to be.
A tasting menu costs around 280 dollars, and the wine pairing menu cost around 200 dollars; 100 dollars for the juice menu. It’s extravagant and laid-back at the same time; international and highly local dining with guests from around the world right here on what is in many ways the edge of the world. If you’re ever considering travelling for a meal, I’d without hesitation recommend you venture to The Faroes, and take in the stunning landscapes and Ziska’s other-worldly restaurant.
KOKS Restaurant | Frammi við Gjónna, Leynavatn
NB: KOKS is closed during 2022 + 2023, instead running their restaurant from Greenland (feature coming very soon!). KOKS has two sister restaurants in Tórshavn, more info here.
