Sailing the ice sea, a two-starred Michelin meal, and award-winning architecture in Greenland
I travelled to Western Greenland and found much more than just ice — the world’s most remote Michelin restaurant, new architecture celebrating Arctic culture and nature, and a night spent in a modern eco-lodge, off-grid and with a view to remember
In paid partnership with Visit Greenland — all images, words & opinions are my own
Only around twenty percent of the world’s largest island is habitable; the remaining is extreme wilderness, ice and snow.
Nevertheless, the regions that are reachable offer some of the most memorable and extraordinary experiences, I’ve ever had on any trip.
I found what I was expecting from Greenland — wide stretches of ice, colourful houses and settlements by the fjords. Strong traditions, difficult political debates, and a long and complicated history with Denmark; very much on-going and omnipresent.
I also found so much more. A two-starred Michelin meal on the verge of the ice sea, world-famous architecture, and a local community working hard at ensuring a future, where visitors stay respectful to these otherworldly surroundings.
↑ In 2024, Faroese KOKS embarks on their third season of relocating to Greenland — committing to local produce sourced right outside the windows. Read about my visit to KOKS in Ilimanaq down the post.
Together with a small group of journalists, photographers and videographers from around the world, I was lucky enough to explore the Ilulissat region of Western Greenland, where we got to sail the icefjord at midnight, visit the eldest settlement in Greenland, and hike along the ice sea.
And that’s only half of it — read on for my favourite things to experience in and around Ilulissat, Greenland.
Sailing the icefjord of Disko Bay at midnight during summer, where the sun never sets
Ilulissat — The Land of Icebergs
Ilulissat in Western Greenland is situated on the coast of Disco Bay — a UNESCO World Heritage Site. ‘Ilulissat’ simply means ‘iceberg’ in Greenlandic, and its name is pretty self-explanatory. If you’re coming to Greenland for the ice; this is where to go.
Year-round, one of the fastest glaciers in the world named Sermeq Kujalleq makes thousands of icebergs float around the bay, and these can be seen when sailing, hiking or simply walking the (accessible) shores of the area.
Scroll down for my top things to do in & around Ilulissat town.
WHAT TO DO IN ILULISSAT
Go sailing. Whether during the day or on a Midnight sail during summer, venturing out on Disko Bay is a must. It’s also an activity that — just like most others in Greenland — is deeply dependent on the weather. There are several different trips all going out from Ilulissat harbour, and you can choose from wale watching, day trips to the glacier, ice bergs safaris, fishing tours, and more.
A trip costs from 500 DKK to 2.000 DKK per person dependent on the length and destination, and I highly recommend the Ice Fjord Tour by Night. During summer, you will be sailing out at around 9pm, and experience the eternal sunshine of the Arctic; a truly surreal experience.
Read more about boat trips from Ilulissat here.
One of 15 cabins in Ilimanaq, each with their private terrace and views to Disko Bay. Read more about Ilimanaq Lodges further down this post.
Walk around town and visit Zion Church. Ilulissat town is small, and easy to navigate by foot. A walk will most likely take you past Greenland’s oldest church built in 1779; a black wooden structure overlooking Disko Bay that you can’t miss. One of the northernmost churches in the world, this is by far one of the most picturesque spots in Ilulissat town — scroll down this blog post from images of the church.
Enjoy dinner and a view at Hotel Arctic. Situated atop of town, this hotel offers some seriously stunning views. It’s a bit of a hike up winding streets from the town, but a coffee or dinner here on the shores of the UNESCO World Heritage Site is quite the reward.
Hotel Arctic have recently put up seven so-called Aurora Cabins; private glass huts overlooking the ice sea. I did not stay here, but I have no doubt it’d be a night to remember.
Discover Hotel Arctic here.
↑ Step inside the historic house in Ilimanaq, Greenland’s eldest settlement, and experience a Michelin meal to remember.
A Michelin Meal on the Verge of the Ice Sea
Faroese restaurant KOKS led by executive chef Poul Andrias Ziska is no stranger to praising headlines in international media—and rightfully so. The grass-roofed house pretty much in the middle of nowhere on the main island in the Faroes, Streymoy, has been challenging the way we perceive local produce and sustainability for more than a decade.
During summer season of 2022, KOKS relocated to an even more remote location; the tiny Ilimanaq settlement on the shore of Disko Bay, Greenland.
With only 50 inhabitants and the only passable route here being by boat traversing the icefjord from Ilulissat, head chef Poul Andrias and his team invite guests to experience Greenlandic food traditions and produce in a way that’s never been seen before. Needless to say; I was honoured to be amongst the very first guests here together with the group.
The only way to reach KOKS is by sailing the icefjord from Ilulissat which is only feasible from May to November. KOKS’ season runs from June to September 2024.
Every dish—all twenty of them—was a storytelling adventure on its own, full of umami and served with a aesthetic and graphic touch I’ve never seen before.
↑ A dish that has been getting a lof of press; the native white bird Ptarmigan served on its own wing bone with digested crowberries in a blackcurrant salsa.
The Faroese KOKS wound up here in Ilimanaq by a series of coincidences; the lease of their then-restaurant on the Faroes coming to an end; and KOKS’ majority owner having contacts in Greenland. When the two historic houses overlooking the sea were available, Ziska — always fascinated with Greenland and curious about its local food traditions — jumped at the chance.
With the ever-changing Disko Bay and ice bergs floating by right outside the windows of the restaurant, KOKS create a memorable experience for guests, where every dish was a storytelling adventure on its own, full of umami and served with a aesthetic and graphic touch I’ve never seen before.
KOKS is housed in the small settlement Ilimanaq with around 50 inhabitants on the shore of Disko Bay.
Working from his usual approach of using the produce that’s immediately available to him, chef Ziska found and introduced local shellfish that the Greenlandic were not accustomed to eating; just as the team had to navigate and improvise according to the catch of the day from local fishermen.
After a meal of a lifetime at KOKS, guests have the one option of spending the night at Ilimanaq Lodges with an equally stunning view, since there’s no way of getting from the tiny settlement at night. They won’t be sorry though — scroll down to read about these architectural cabins overlooking the sea.
Keep updated on KOKS’ adventures on their Instagram here.
The terrace at KOKS, where guests can enjoy the view of ice bergs floating by
The Icefjord Centre: Award-winning architecture
Located 250 kilometres north of the Arctic Circle, the Ilulissat Icefjord Centre is the first of six planned visitor’s centres in Greenland. A hub for research, education and exhibitions all with emphasizing and enlightening the climate changes from 124.000 B.C.E until today.
Brought to life in a joint effort by Dorte Mandrup Architects, philanthropic association Realdania and the Greenlandic government, the centre was inaugurated in 2021.
The centre functions both as a museum for visitors, but also — and equally important — as a meeting point for locals in Ilulissat. Residents of Greenland can purchase an annual pass for the price of a single entrance ticket (150 DKK), and thus, locals meet up for coffee and homebaked cakes in the café on Sunday mornings, or picnic on the rooftop in the afternoon.
The permanent exhibition ‘Sermeq pillugu Oqaluttuaq’ – A Tale of Ice is a mix of film, sound sequences recorded in the depths of the inland ice by archaeologizes over several years, and smaller objects displayed in replikas of ice blocks showcasing how locals have lived in co-existence with the tough conditions for thousands of years.
Dorte Mandrup Architects have created the building on a steel frame resting on the underground providing space for the existing flora and animal life underneath. Furthermore, the entire structure can be taken away from the location without leaving a single trace behind, should the need arise one day. The organic line is inspired by the wingspan of the local Snowy Owl as it travels through the airspace of Ilulissat.
Stay in a modern eco-lodge with a view
Perched on the shore of the tiny settlement Ilimanaq, Ilimanaq Lodges are a total of 15 cabins each with their private terrace (with splendid views, obviously!), makes for one of the most extraordinary accommodations in Greenland. These solar-powered, architectural lodges houses 2 people each, and has a private bathroom and shower — not necessarily a given when finding a place to stay in Greenland.
Brave travellers can take a morning dip from the small beach in the morning (temperature is around 6°C in summer, so not a problem if you’re a winter bather. Just a few minutes walk from the lodges you’ll find the small Ilimanaq settlement with a kiosk/grocery store, reception and restaurant inside the historic houses, where KOKS resided.
All lodges have an amazing view to Disko Bay
The only way to get to Ilimanaq is by sailing the icefjord from Ilulissat, and Ilimanaq Lodge takes pride in not offering wifi (also, data connection out here is sporadic). There’s no TV, but you have an everchanging view of ice bergs floating by and the light changing throughout the day right outside the window.
Excess energy from the solar panels are sold to Ilimanaq town very cheap, and houses are designed to seamlessly blend into the surroundings. The top floor has the bedroom with twin beds, the ground floor has the livingroom area, bathroom and terrace with quite a view.
Ilimanaq Lodges has no wi-fi or TV, but a panoramic view to the ever-changing icefjord
Hike on the shores of Disko Bay
With a starting point from the Icefjord Centre, you will find the World Heritage Trail — a wooden walkway going from the centre through UNESCO-protected landscape (do not step out of the walkway). Soon after arriving at the fjord (about a 30 minute walk) the trail continues in three different routes of varying difficulty.
Whilst the walkway is suited for most people (even strollers and wheelchairs), the following routes are slightly more challenging. They are well worth it, and you’ll pass the frozen ice sea, the former Inuit settlement Sermermiut, Nakkavik (‘Kællingkløften’) from where you’ll have splendid views of Disko Bay and Disko Island in the horizon.
World Heritage Trail take you past UNESCO-protected landscape and amazing views
↑ Hiking on the trails starting from Ilulissat Icefjord Centre and divides into three trails; from about one hour to a full day’s hike
Zion Church in Ilulissat
ILULISSAT TRAVEL GUIDE
