From Copenhagen to Switzerland by train
And 4 things that surprised me — from Italian vibes by Lago Maggiore to world-class architecture in Basel and a valley of mountain villages straight out of a Tolkien-fairytale.
Don’t miss: a very honest review on the 30 hour overnight train journey from Copenhagen to Southern Switzerland, and travelling with steamboat on Lake Lucerne ↓
This guide is created in paid partnership with Switzerland Tourism
↑ Perhaps the world’s most scenic train ride? On the Gotthard Panorama Express from Ticino to Lucerne. Here, two of my sweet travel partners Johanne & Therese
Buckle up — or, just sit back and relax — because we’re going on a train ride from the cold North to the charming South!
Departing from Copenhagen Central Station on a Monday afternoon, I changed to the night train in Hamburg, and woke up Tuesday morning in Zürich. Then hopped on a train to Locarno, and was ready to explore some seriously stunning sights in Switzerland’s Ticino region right on the Italian border.
Scroll down for my top things to do in Ticino and Basel. Also, get a pro tip on travelling with train, bus, boat (and funicular!) within all of Switzerland.
In this guide, I’m taking you to picturesque towns on the lake in Switzerland’s only Italian-speaking canton Ticino. Plus a tiny botanical island in the middle of Lago Maggiore you can’t miss. We’re also uncovering Basel as a hotspot for architecture & design, and hiking in the Valle Bavona; discovering total off-grid villages in the deepest valley of the Alps.
Plus, I’m sharing my very honest review on my first ever long train journey through a big chunk of Europe, and whether or not I’d do it again! Scroll down for my top tips to each destination in Switzerland, and my train review at the very end ↓
↑ A must-visit: The tiny botanical island Brissago on Lago Maggiore. This is the islands (only) hotel & restaurant Villa Emden
01. Italian vibes by Lago Maggiore
Welcome to Ticino, where Swiss punctuality meets Italian charm in the best possible way! Our days here felt like an Italian-style summer holiday—think refreshing swims in Lago Maggiore, small medieval stone villages and vibrant squares with plenty of life, cafés and restaurants.
Lago Maggiore, the largest lake in Southern Switzerland, is popular for its warm climate, beautiful villages, and relaxed Mediterranean atmosphere. If you’re into sports and active holidays: this place will also be your dream destination.
Two popular towns are Locarno and Ascona, from where you can hop on a boat traversing the lake, swim from one of the beaches, and hike or bike the stunning Swiss Alps. In the middle of the lake lies Isola Brissago—two tiny islands holding Switzerland’s only botanical garden located on an island. Spend a day here in the subtropical climate walking around the stunning surroundings, have lunch at hotel & restaurant Villa Emden, and take a swim in the clear water.
↑ Take the boat to Brissago Island from Ascona, and enjoy a beautiful day here
↑ Holiday vibes in Ascona town on the shores of Lago Maggiore
What to do by Lago Maggiore
+ Visit Isola Brissago — the tiny botanical island. Boats depart from both Locarno (around 40 min) and Ascona (15 min).
+ Book a guided bike tour with Bikeport Ticino of the area, taking you to beautiful medieval towns, through the Alps, on the shores of the lake, or to waterfalls and vineyards.
+ Visit spa Termali Salini & Spa Locarno right on the lake. Enjoy the view from the saltwater infinity pool, visit saunas & baths and take a swim all the way from inside to outside in the connected pool.
+ Get active on the lake: wakeboarding or surfing, SUP’ing or canoeing; whatever floats your boat. If you’re into yoga, don’t miss a stand up paddle yoga session during sunrise or sunset.
↑ First image; Romantik Hotel Castello Seeschloss in Ascona, second: Villa Emden on Brissago Island
Where to stay
+ Villa Emden (Brissago Island)
+ Belvedere Locarno
+ Romantik Hotel Castello Seeschloss
02. Off-grid villages in the Swiss Alps
Valle Bavona, nestled in the heart of Ticino, is famous for being completely off-grid. The valley has no electricity, and the 12 villages spread out across the valley are only inhabited and accessible in summer. The steepest valley in the Alps, Bavona is one of the most famous destinations for bouldering in Europe. Day trips to the valley are popular from the Locarno-area either by bus or car, and we got on a bus from Locarno Station in the morning, and departed again in the afternoon.
The valley villages date back to the 16th century, and the area is best explored by foot. When walking around the quiet Lord of the Rings-villages, you’ll meet locals sitting outside their stone houses. Some have lived here forever with houses passed down through generations. A few are lucky (and very wealthy!) Swiss locals haven purchased stone houses as summer cabins, and come here for the complete peace and quiet.
Different trails take you past the famous Foroglio Waterfall (don’t forget to walk up the tiny village Foroglio right next to it for a magnificent view!).
Bring your camera, wear comfortable clothes, and enjoy lunch at La Froda right by the waterfall.
↑ Foroglio Waterfall is more than 110 meters high, and the view from the tiny village is beautiful. You can get very close to the waterfall by following the path from La Froda restaurant.
How to get to Valle Bavona
By public transport: Hop on bus 315 from Locarno train station. After about 45 minutes, get off at Bignasco Posta (where nearly everyone leaves, you can’t miss it). Continue on bus 333, direction S. Carlo. Get off at Foroglio after around 10 min.
Important info: Busses only operate from April 1st to October 31st, and only runs around 5 times a day, so don’t miss the last bus in the afternoon.
03. Design & architecture in Basel
Basel in the very north of Switzerland had been on my radar for a good while; the city is small in size, but grand in culture. Perhaps you’ve heard of Art Basel, one of the finest art fairs in the world taking place every year in Basel, but also transcending to the rest of the world?
As someone with a great interest in design and architecture, Basel has always just exuded great style and quality experiences, all over. And I was not wrong in thinking this.
While we only had around 24 hours in town, it was still enough time to hop on a bike tour headed towards some of the world’s most interesting sights for interior, architecture and design (more than that ↓).
We also had time to dip our toes in the Rhine (a preferred way of transport amongst locals? Pack your belongings in a waterproof sack, and float down the river to work!), and enjoy great food in beautiful, charming eateries and restaurants.
Basel, I will definitely be back one day, but until then, scroll down for my top things to do.
↑ Vitra Haus just outside Basel is a must. A walk through the legacy design brand’s body of work; both classics and contemporary, displayed in the famous Haus by Herzog & de Meuron
When Vitra launched their Home Collection about two decades ago, they moved from primarily focussing on office designs and business clients, to presenting furniture and interior to private customers. A space was needed to showcase their designs, and thus. the birth of Vitra Haus, a 20 minute from downtown Basel.
World-famous Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron have designed the striking house with its futuristic, zigzaggy look, stunning garden and several floors and departments where you can get lost in both Vitra classics and the latest, contemporary designs displayed in various, home-like settings.
↑ Vitra Haus is created as a (huge!) private home, taking you through different living spaces, all beautifully done and inspiring. The outside garden by Piet Oudolf is also worth a visit. Right next to Vitra Haus is the Vitra Design Museum, scroll down for more.
↑ Vitra Design Museum by Frank Gehry, the first building in his ‘deconstructivism’ era, that later inspired projects such as the Guggenheim in Bilbao and the Walt Disney Concert Hall in LA. The museum has annual exhibitions examining the relationship between design, architecture, art and everyday life
Another must-visit in town: Basel Art Museum (Kunstmuseum Basel), one of the oldest museums in the world. I only made it to one of their 3 locations, the 'Hauptbau' building on St. Alban-Graben 16, which was beautiful
Mini City Guide to Basel
+ Museums: Vitra Design Museum & Vitra Haus | Basel Art Museum | Fondation Beyeler
+ Cafés & Restaurants: Volkshaus Basel | LAUCH | Fruhling | Restaurant Fondation Beyeler
+ Hotels: Art House Basel | Volkhaus Basel Hotel
Perhaps the world’s most scenic train ride? On the Gotthard Panorama Express from Ticino to Lucerne. Here, two of my sweet travel partners @johannekohlmetz & @thereseelgquist
And the 30 hour train journey? Was it worth it?
The very short answer is: YES. Most definitely. I would do it again, no question.
The overnight train worked like a charm; I actually found my small sleeping cabin from Hamburg to Zürich quite cosy. Family cabins are available (with a private toilet included!); would 10/10 also try that with the rest of the bunch one day.
We departed from Copenhagen Central Station in the afternoon, changed to the night train in Hamburg (had dinner and a little break here), then slept all the way to Zürich and changed here to Locarno in the south.
Honestly: I was slightly concerned. My first night train (as an adult—have been on plenty in the 90ies), travelling with a group I’d only just met (that quickly felt like friends). But it worked like a charm; all trains were on time, Swiss precision all over, and I spent some hours on the train working, then sleeping, then enjoying the magnificent views, and you’ve arrived.
With the Swiss Travel Pass, hop on any boat, bus, train and funicular in all of Switzerland and travel around all you want without the hassle of purchasing individual tickets.
After our days in the south, we crossed the country to Basel in the north with the Gotthard Panoramic Express. A journey of both train and boat, we hopped on the modern train with panorama windows, passed the Alps and heart of Switzerland, and traversed Lake Lucern and its turquoise waters on board a steamboat—lunch in the upstairs restaurant in a must.
Not your usual travel day on vacation, that’s for sure; the journey was of course filled with beautiful sights, despite the rainy weather and grey skies.
Pro tip: when travelling in Switzerland, get the Swiss Travel Pass that lets you take all buses, trains, boats and funiculars in all of Switzerland at a fixed price. Passes are available for either 3, 4, 6, 8 or 15 days, and it definitely comes in handy as public transport within the country is a breeze.
On board the Gotthard Panorama Express steamboat crossing Lake Lucerne. Destination: Basel in the north from Ticino in the south
Thanks for the ride (and the sails, hikes, and swims!) Switzerland Tourism, and for partnering on this post.
